The gardening task which most gardeners dread, especially those new to gardening, is often cutting back plants. It can be overwhelming trying to figure out how and when to begin pruning different trees and shrubs. The primary concern is that we will take too much of the plant off and damage or directly kill it.
However, trimming is not as difficult or intimidating as one might expect. By reducing unwanted and damaged materials, you will only stimulate new growth and flowering. So keep reading this guide and you will have the knowledge and confidence to rein in every unruly plant in your garden.
Table of Contents
Choose the right pruning tools
Just like with any hobby or DIY task, it helps to have the right tools for the job. Pruning tools come in many shapes, sizes, and forms, ranging from basic tools for general pruning to more specialised tools for specific tasks.
While you can use basic tools to complete most pruning tasks, you may feel more comfortable using specialised tools in case you are not confident in using ladders or if you are unable to grip tools for an extended period of time.
Below, you can find a list of the most common pruning tools that you might need to purchase, before moving to the actual pruning.
Garden scissors
A pair of good garden scissors is an essential tool for all gardeners. They are perfect for pruning delicate plants and shrubs. Garden scissors are particularly suited for cutting flowers and removing dead flower heads.
Secateurs
Secateurs are, essentially, heavy-duty garden scissors. They are mostly used to prune shrubs with tougher stems, such as roses. To avoid accidents, and for easier use, it is recommended to buy a pair which will comfortably fit in your hand. If you cannot find an appropriate pair, there are adjustable versions available on the market as well.
Secateurs come in two varieties. These types are called a bypass and an anvil, respectively. Bypass secateurs work in the same way as scissors, with two blades passing each other. This results in a clean cut, which is most suited to pruning more delicate plants.
Anvil secateurs consist of one blade, which closes on a flat metal surface. They are perfect for plants with thicker and tougher stems.
Loppers
Loppers are basically strong secateurs with long handles. The extra length allows you to exert much more pressure with both hands when cutting thicker branches. They are perfect for cutting smaller tree branches or stems in hard-to-access areas, such as the centre of a thorny bush.
Just like secateurs, they can be found as bypass and anvil types.
Cut and hold pruners
This tool will not only cut what you need it to, but will also hold on to the branch or stem that has been cut. This means that you don’t have to continuously bend over to pick up plant trimmings. This makes them perfect for people with limited mobility who still want to enjoy gardening.
Looking to find an appropriate way to maintain your garden chainsaw? Here is a list of chainsaw chains to make your choice easier.
Pruning saws
Best used for removing smaller branches up to 5 cm thick. Pay attention to the sharpness of the blades, as clean, precision cuts will ensure easier healing of your trees.
Also, as trees contain an abundance of sticky sap, it can be difficult to cut through branches with a normal handsaw – the blade will get stuck and you will waste a lot of energy to constantly retrieve it. The teeth on the blade of a pruning saw are specially designed to resist sap and easily cut through green living wood, with many of them also sawing when you pull the saw towards yourself.
There are many variations of pruning saws available. Some look like a carpenter’s saw, while others may fold into a handle. When choosing a pruning saw, spend some time handling them and choose the one which feels most comfortable in your hand.
Tree pruning systems
These specialised tree pruning tools come with telescopic handles that you can use to extend them in order to reach higher branches. A variety of attachments are available here, including a collection of interchangeable saws and loppers to tackle branches of varying thickness. Other all-in-one tree pruning tools are also available, these consist of a telescopic pole, a heavy duty saw, and a pull-cord controlled lopper.
They are the perfect option if you don’t like the idea of cutting branches while perilously perched on a set of ladders.
Multi-change systems
Multi-change systems are the garden equivalent of a multi-tool. The interchangeable handles and heads make them an excellent all-around gardening tool. If you don’t want to spend a lot of money on a selection of specialised tools, this is the option for you. Multi-change systems give you the flexibility to tackle a wide range of tasks with a single tool.
How about getting the best pair of gloves? Then check out our guide on how to choose the right gardening gloves for you.
When is the best time to trim your trees and bushes?
Usually, it is recommended to prune your trees when they are dormant, as it doesn’t affect the growth of the tree and it’s easier to select the branches when they are free from leaves.
However, it is important to remember that the pruning time might vary based on the trees’ individual flowering patterns. With this in mind:
Evergreen trees
These types rarely require pruning. Evergreens, such as Fir trees, Juniper plants, and Pine trees, are plants which do not lose their leaves during autumn and winter. The only thing that you should be paying attention to is the damaged, dead, and diseased branches. Those are usually removed in late summer.
Deciduous trees and shrubs
Deciduous trees and shrubs are plants which shed their leaves as the weather cools down. Good examples of this are Chestnut trees and Hydrangea shrubs. The ideal time to prune members of the deciduous family is either at the end of the growing season in August or during the winter months, when the plant is in a dormant state.
Young deciduous plants benefit greatly from formative pruning during the early stages of growth as they produce a lot of shoots that spread in all directions.
Avoid pruning flowering and fruit-producing plants in the early spring, as they may start bleeding sap and you run the risk of preventing the plant from blooming or giving fruit.
Early-flowering shrubs
They bloom on the previous year’s growth and should be pruned immediately after blooming, somewhere in early spring.
Summer and autumn-flowering shrubs
These should be pruned in early to mid-spring. This way, you allow the plants to heal and flower in the same year.
Pruning calendar
For your convenience, we have gathered the most popular garden trees and shrubs in the UK and sorted them by pruning months. Use it as a guide, when pruning your trees and shrubs.
Month | Trees to prune | Shrubs and climbers to prune |
January | Ornamental pear (Pyrus), Beech (Fagus), Hazel (Corylus), Kilmarnock willow | Aucuba japonica, Deciduous barberry, Brugmansia, Buddleja globosa, Boston ivy, Elder, Ornamental vine (Vitis), Roses (including climbing roses), Virginia creeper, Wisteria |
February | Acer, Ash, Crab apple (only if cold weather has passed), Quince, Eucalyptus, Willow, Nyssa sylvatica, Persian ironwood, Oak, Ornamental pear (Pyrus), Rowan, Japanese Snowbell | Billardiera, Hydrangea paniculata, Summer lilac (Buddleja davidii), Chinese plumbago, Mallow, Dogwood , Hazel, Peony tree (dead shoots) |
March | Crab apple, Eucalyptus, Eucryphia, Talia (before blooming) | Caryopteris clandonensis, Ceratostigma, Deciduous Ceanothus, Daphnes, Dogwood, Japanese laurels, Winter jasmine, Ivy, Hydrangea paniculata, Fuchsia, Leycesteria, Lavatera, Perovskia, Salix, Snowy mespilus, Cherry laurel, Red and white currants |
April | Any tree that has damaged material after winter frost | Salix and Cornus (only at the beginning of the month), Cotinus and Elders can be stooled, Lavender, Santolina, Curry plant, Fuchsia, Camellia japonica |
May | Young mimosa trees | Penstemon, Caryopteris and Fuchsia, Evergreen hedges, Flowering quince, Mexican orange blossom (Choysia), Currants, Clematis (right after blooming), Roses (only diseased material) |
June | Deciduous magnolias, Paulownia | Privet, Box, Lonicera nitida, Rhododendrons, Rosemary after flowering: Deutzia, Beauty bush, Weigela, Mock orange |
July | Stone fruit trees: plums, cherries, peaches and apricots; almonds | Weigela and Mock orange (after flowering), Tree peony (dead flowers and damaged material), Roses (dead flowers) |
August | Time to remove large trees that are causing troubles like drought or waterlogging and remove stumps | Climbing shrubs (after flowering), Lavender (after flowering), Hebes, Rambling roses, Summer fruiting Raspberries |
September | Birch, Hornbeam | Final trim for the hedges before winter, Common jasmine (after flowering), Blackberry, Blackcurrant, Pyracantha |
October | Walnut, Acer | Winter pruning Wisteria, Pyracantha, Climbing roses Buddleja davidii, Cornus alba, Lavatera – to prevent wind damage |
November – December | Perfect time for tree pruning, including fruit tree trimming. Exceptions are Prunus species, like cherries, plums, apricots, almonds and tender perennials. Also, it is a good time to start planning your tree surgeon visit, as trees are best removed when dormant. | This period is perfect for pruning and tidying up deciduous shrubs and hedges, as they enter the dormant season. |
Shrub and tree pruning tips to remember
When it comes to pruning, gardening enthusiasts are often faced with a dilemma: “To prune or not to prune?”. That is, in fact, the question. And it’s no wonder why you might hesitate to cut your trees or shrubs. After all, one incorrect cut can cause serious damage to the whole tree.
Cutting back trees without killing them
- Examine the tree. You need to identify the base of the tree – its major branches that form the “skeleton”. You would not want to remove those branches.
- Use the right tools for pruning and keep the cuts at a 45-degree angle. This way, you avoid weakening the tree and prevent it from getting diseased.
- Remove suckers and water sprouts. These small shoots only weaken the tree by using up its energy, so better remove them.
- Remove any dead, damaged, and diseased branches. Learn this rule by heart! First, you cut the dead wood, then you cut the damaged material, and finally, remove any branches that might infect the rest of the tree;
- Remove branches that block air circulation. Sometimes, branches can grow close to each other and start blocking the sunlight and air from coming through. To improve the health of the tree, those need to be removed.
The pruning techniques change with the size of the limbs and branches. Here is how you need to prune branches and limbs of various sizes:
- Reducing the size of small limbs – Those are the ones that you can easily remove with a hand tool. Once you cut off the small limbs, this will encourage new growth. That is why you need to make cuts that will direct the new growth. Reduce around one-third of the average length. The cut should be located no more than 6 mm above an outside facing bud, not forgetting about the 45-degree cut;
- Cutting off larger branches – The cut should be located next to the branch bark ridge – the rough line of bark between the trunk and the branch collar. You should also cut at an angle without damaging the branch collar. With large branches, you want to make two cuts prior to the full removal of the branch. This is done in order to reduce the weight of the whole branch and prevent the tearing of the bark.
At a short distance from the collar, make a parallel halfway cut. The cut should be located on the underside of the branch. Make a second cut about 2-3 cm above the first one. Continue to cut until the branch breaks loose. Remove the remaining stump. Don’t cut limbs and branches too close to the bark ridge or leave long stumps.
Shrub trimming techniques
- Follow the rule of 3 Ds – remove all the Dead, Diseased and Damaged branches.
- Remove all the twigs – if you see that some branches don’t give any shoots during their growth, simply remove them.
- Remove branches that grow too closely – if left untrimmed, they will damage each other during the following growing season.
- Leave clean cuts only – make sure that your tools are always sharpened, as clean cuts close faster and smoother.
- Cut at an angle – the 45-degree angle rule is also applicable here. Slightly angled cuts prevent damage and disease.
So there we have it, your guide on when to prune your plants. With the right tools and a little bit of common sense, the dreaded task of pruning will not be as scary as you may have thought.
Remember to always clean and disinfect your garden tools after use and follow the natural rhythm of the plants in your garden. By doing this and using this guide as a stepping stone, your flourishing garden will soon become the envy of all your neighbours.
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Why prune your trees and shrubs?
Even though the majority of people have heard that tree pruning is necessary, not many of them truly understand why this landscaping technique is so important. Let’s look at the reasons.
Grow more fruit
Properly pruning a fruit-bearing tree or shrub opens up the canopy, which improves the plant’s ventilation and lets more light shine through. This gives the plant enough space and energy to grow more buds and flowers in the spring. With its healthy branches and buds, the tree or shrub will be able to produce larger fruits and more of them at a time.
Create a beautiful garden
Pruning has traditionally also been used to alter and improve the shape of plants. When done correctly, this can greatly enhance the decorative qualities of the plants in your garden. With time, patience, and proper pruning, you can create some truly marvelous garden masterpieces, ranging from simple shapes to more complicated forms, such as dragons.
As pruning helps plants divert their energy to the healthiest branches and stems, it can also help them reach their full potential, resulting in vibrant and plentiful blooms.
Grow healthy plants
If you want your garden to exude vitality and flourish, you should regularly remove parts which are dead or show signs of disease. Allowing such plant parts to remain attached is an open invitation for pests, parasites, and diseases to gain a foothold on the already weakened plants.
Furthermore, you might have also heard that pruning encourages plants to grow; however, not everyone understands the science behind it.
If you look at the end of the stem, you can see a terminal bud. This bud releases a hormone that suppresses the growth of the lateral buds. Those are located along the lower part of the stem. If left untouched, the terminal bud will continue growing, slowing the growth process of the rest of the buds.
By cutting off the terminal bud, you will encourage the lateral buds to grow. These shoots will start branching out, creating a bushier and fuller look.
Control of your plants’ size and shape
More and more people throughout the UK are reclaiming any available space they can to start their own gardens. You, however, may only have a small courtyard, a balcony, or a few window boxes to work with. Pruning plants will allow you to control their size, which also gives you space to grow even more plants.
It is also well-known that trees and shrubs grow quite fast. If not taken care of, they can outgrow their space and become quite bothersome to other plants around them.
Remove the branches that grow too close to other trees, as they might rub against one another during the growing season and get damaged. As the bark wears away, the trees become more susceptible to fungal diseases and pest infestations.
Moreover, overgrown branches can cause shading. If the tree blocks a substantial amount of sunlight, the plants around will produce less energy than they need for healthy growth. Heavy shade can even be lethal for some plants. Unless you have shade-tolerant plants in your garden, it is better to reduce the amount of shade by pruning your trees.
Revive old/overgrown plants
A lot of gardens contain at least one old or neglected plant. Many people’s first thought is to uproot the plant and replace it with a younger version.
While this is definitely an option, it is a shame to destroy a well-established plant if it can be brought back to its former glory. Pruning can easily help you achieve this. Removing older branches and stems will give the plant the energy it needs to grow anew.
For safety reasons
Another very important reason for controlling your tree size is safety. Dry branches and limbs can easily break during storms and potentially cause physical damage to your house. By removing the dry materials, you protect your property from accidental damage.
Also, if the trees are located too close to the gutters, leaves and debris can cause excessive build-up in the gutters. If they are clogged and rainwater has nowhere to go, it might penetrate the areas under your roof, causing damage and leaks.
Meaning you’ll have to clean the gutters more often. Even though gutter cleaning is a relatively easy procedure, it is better to remove the overhanging branches to avoid the recurrence of the problem.
Need help pruning your bushes and trees?
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For questions about the services we offer visit our main site or you can always call us at 020 3404 4881
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Did we miss anything? Do you have any pruning tips? Let us know in the comments below or give us a shout on social media!
Header image: Shutterstock / By chanchai plongern
For fruits and nuts it is OK Deseased and bad branches OK. Som of the pruning is allright bit I think Beatles haircut, Hurricane haircut of Palms looks terrible,topping, shearing, to prune all of the lower branches, liontailing, taking away thick branches so you just get a lot thin branches, and a trying to make a plant unrecognisable. I like to watch trees and shrubs in winter bit what I see is the resultat of bad pruning.IF this is your goal you succeed. The results of good pruning is hard to see. IF you haven’t room for your plants do not plant them. I think you shouldn’t promote slaughtering of plants.
Another very helpful feedback, thank you very much Lars! Updates are coming!
As a professional gardener myself I would say that this is very general guide and has little specific information to inspire confidence in someone who doesn’t know much about pruning. Some of the information is ok but pruning an evergreen depends on when/if it flowers too. After flowering is the general rule which means spring flowering evergreens can be done in May, June or whatever. This also ensures next year’s flowers stay on the plant. But I agree trying not to prune any of them after August or early September is best. But the deciduous pruning guide is too general and using hydrangea as an example for winter pruning is not good because many people advocate pruning this one in ‘late winter’. Now that can vary but not before a little way into March I would say and definitely not during a cold snap. There is no deciduous ‘family’ either.
Thanks for pointing out some of the issues, Angela! We’ll be sure to update the article to match a more in-depth look on pruning certain plants.
Thanks for your tips to take care of your shrubs by pruning them. I like how you said that you could even turn them into the shapes if you desire. My husband and I need to hire shrub care services to prune and trim ours because we don’t have much time or skill to do that ourselves.
In general, the best time to trim is when the plant is not actively growing. The dormant season would be the period when a deciduous variety lacks leaves. Dormancy also occurs prior to a vigorous showing of new growth, typically in the spring of the year.
It worth to share this knowledge you have shared, very helpful and useful. Tips are very effective and I learned so much in the proper care of this plants that very important to us. Thank you for sharing this great knowledge!
Thanks for the informative article. This is one of the best resources I have found in quite some time. Nicely written and great info.
Hi, I have a Robina tree and this year leaves and flowers are only at the end of branches. Nothing until at least half way up. Should I prune to encourage leaves further down branches?
Thank you
I would also like to know then to prune leggy Robina tree. Any advice out there?
Thank, these tips are very helpful. I really appreciate your efforts for creating this well content on tree care and pruning. I would consider a tree services revere ma this month since some trees in my yard have showed a reduction in fruit quality and quantity. I’ve researched with online reviews in some companies near Revere ma and would give them a few call soon